Janome Makers are amazing! They constantly try out new ways to use all of the features on their Janome machines and come up with fresh ideas to share. Maker Danielle Amato has many videos on the Janome YouTube channel featuring different projects that are geared towards garment sewing. In this tutorial, Danielle uses the Janome Artistic Digitizer software to upcycle a crewneck with fun applique and fabric scraps! 

I have been absolutely loving my Skyline S9. This week I finally decided to get into the appliqué side of what this machine can do. Thanks to the help of Janome's Artistic Digitizer, this was such an easy and fun way to update an old crewneck.

Creating the Applique File

The first thing I did, was type out the word I wanted on my sweatshirt, into the Artistic Digitizer software. Because who doesn't love coffee enough to put it on your sweatshirt?

After I typed out the word, I picked the font that I liked and I curved it to look more like collegiate lettering.

Since my hoop is only 5.5" wide, I have to resize my image to be the width that I want on the chest of the sweatshirt. Once I sized the full image to how big I want it on the sweatshirt, I split the design in half and put it on two separate hoop files. When I go to appliqué the sweatshirt, I will do the first half of the word, and then re-hoop the sweatshirt and do the second half of the word (more on this later)

Once I do that, I go over to the sidebar under "Fill" and select "Applique". I also select "Fix Satin" to give that satin-edged look around the letters. You will now see that the letters changed from a complete satin fill to the look of fabric with sating stitching around the letters. I can now send the files over to my machine.

Hooping the Sweatshirt

First, I marked 3" down from the neckband, made a cross mark. Folding the sweatshirt in half, matching shoulders, I found the center front line and marked. These marks will be the guidelines for when I hoop the sweatshirt.

The first step in the appliqué file will outline the placement of the appliqué. Once this is stitched out, you can then place the fabric you would like on top of it. Make sure that the fabric piece is larger than the outline.

Once your fabric is placed, the next step is to tack down the fabric.

Once the fabric is tacked down, carefully cut the excess fabric as close to the stitching line as you can.

After this, the next step for the machine is to create the satin edge.

This process will repeat for each letter.

After I finished the first half of the word, I re-hooped the sweatshirt and repeated this process for the second half. The final result is a great top that you will wear often! You can use this technique to add your personal touch to garments, bags, quilts, and home decor! 

We are excited to announce that for the month of May you can get a month free to try out Janome Artistic Digitizer! You can register for this trial through May 15th! The trial ends on May 31, 2021. This offer is only good for Janome America and Janome Canada. 

Save time and have more quilts finished by machine binding your quilt! Janome Maker Melanie Call from Machine Binding Tutorial with Janome M7! 

Hello Janome Friends! I'm Melanie from A Bit of Scrap Stuff (Blog or Instagram) and today I'm sharing my favorite technique for machine binding! 

I absolutely love machine binding my quilts, pillows, and projects because it is durable, quick, and looks fabulous! This is how I bind 99.999999% of all of my projects. It is the way ;). 

Ready to Learn: Machine Binding

*I'm sewing on a Janome M7 - so your Janome sewing machine screen/controls may look a bit different.

Supplies:

• 2.5" strip(s) of fabric for binding

• Dual Feed Foot Holder (walking foot) with Open Toe UD Foot and 1/4"  OD foot

• Janome A Foot * May also use AcuFeed Foot (walking foot) instead

• 1/4" Ruler

• Marking Pen

• A thread that matches the binding

Step 1: Make Binding

• If multiple strips of fabric are needed - sew 2.5"binding strips together on the bias to make 1 long binding strip. Sewing strips together on the diagonal (bias) creates fewer bulky seams.

• Janome M7 settings. A foot, straight stitch, 1.8 stitch length *May also use Dual Feed Holder with UD Foot (walking foot) if preferred

• Place left binding strip right side up. Then place the next binding strip perpendicular right sides together Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the top fabric as shown below.

• Stitch along a drawn diagonal line. Trim 1/4" away from the sewn line. Hint- make sure you have sewn your binding strips correctly together before trimming.

• Press binding strip in half (wrong sides together). The binding strip will measure 1.25" in width when folded wrong sides together

Step 2: Attach Binding to BACK of quilt/pillow/project

• Attach Dual Feed Foot Holder (walking foot) with 1/4" OD foot attached (top foot in photo). Needle position 1/4", Stitch Length 2.0, and activate Dual Feed button on screen (highlighted in yellow in photo below). I prefer to use my Dual Feed Foot for attaching binding as the machine is sewing through multiple layers (quilt top, batting, quilt backing, plus double-fold binding).

• Starting about 6" from the end of the binding tail, place binding on BACK of project. Line up raw edges of binding and raw edges of the project. Attach/Sew with 1/4" seam allowance until you are about 3" from the corner.

• Mitering Corner of Binding. Draw a line 1/4" from edge of project. Continue sewing until you reach the drawn line. Back Stitch. Stitch off the project at a 45-degree angle (see yellow arrow below) - this helps with the next step. Cut thread and remove the quilt from the machine.

Fold binding upwards so edge of binding aligns with edge of project and stitched line from previous step when you stitched off the project at a diagonal to the corner.

• Fold binding down so the folded edge of binding aligns with the raw edge of the project. Attach a wonder clip to hold the binding in position. Begin stitching 1/4" from the edge of the project. Backstitch. Repeat at all corners to miter.

• Stop stitching about 10" from the beginning. 

• Overlap binding tails by 2 3/8". Draw a line and cut on the drawn line. I find a 2 3/8" overlap makes my binding fit best. Traditionally the overlap would be 2 1/2" since that is the original width of the binding.

• Sew 2.5"binding tails together on the bias. Unfold binding tails. Place fabric on the left-right side up. Then place other binding tail perpendicular right sides together. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the top fabric as shown below. Sewing binding tails on the diagonal (bias) reduces seam bulk.

• Stitch along a drawn diagonal line. Refold binding and check that your binding is the correct size THEN trim 1/4" away from the sewn line. Finish attaching binding with 1/4" seam. Backstitch over beginning stitches to secure start/stop.

Step 3: Stitch Binding to FRONT of Project

• Change to Dual Feed Open Toe UD Foot, Dual Feed Key selected, Needle Position Center, and Stitch Length 2.0

• Wrap binding to the front of the project and secure with wonder clips. Bring up the bobbin thread before stitching to prevent thread knot on the back of the project. Stitch 1/8" away from the folded edge of the binding.

• Continue stitching until about 3" away from the corner. Fold binding on the unstitched side up and hold down. Then fold binding from the stitched side over the project to create a mitered corner. 

• Stitch to corner. Raise presser foot (leave the needle in DOWN position). Rotate project. Lower presser foot and continue stitching down the binding. Repeat for all mitered corners. Backstitch over beginning stitches to secure. 

Congratulations your project is now bound and ready to be loved!

Tutorials are available for Oh Happy Day Pillow front (HERE) and attaching an exposed zipper for pillow backing (HERE)

Be sure to follow me for more sewing fun and more examples of machine binding! A Bit of Scrap Stuff Blog (here) or Instagram (here).


Happy Sewing!
Melanie Call