Instructions:
Perfect coordinates and custom design! A flat sheet is the source of the extra fabric used to create the custom top sheet, coordinating pillow cases and matching pillow shams.
Remove the hems and trim from one of the flat sheets. Spritz with water and press to remove the crease marks.
From the sheet fabric, cut:Two 10 1/2" strips from the width of fabric (Top sheet and pillowcases)
Four 6" strips from the width of the fabric (Pillow shams, tucked squares)
Two 25" x 33" rectangles (Pillow shams, lining)
Four 18" x 25" (Pillow shams, back)
Four 2 3/4" strips from the width of the fabric.
Cut segments:
Four @ 2 3/4" x 25" (Pillow sham, outer border)
Four @ 2 3/4" x 33" (Pillow sham, outer border)
From coordinating print fabric, cut:
Two 25" x 33" rectangles (Pillowcases)
From contrast fabric, cut:
Five 1 1/2" strips from the width of the fabric (Top sheet and pillowcases)
Six 1" strips from the width of the fabric (Pillow shams)
From low loft batting, cut
Two 25" x 33" rectangles
Top Sheet Instructions:
• On the remaining flat sheet, cut away the upper hem and trim.
• Join three of the contrast fabric strips to create a continuous length the width of the top sheet plus 1".
• Fold in 1/2" at each end of the strip and press. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, and press.
• Pin the folded contrast trim to the upper edge of the first top sheep. Match the ends of the contrast strip so they are even with the side seams of the sheet.
• Fold the 10 1/2" strip of sheet fabric lengthwise with the fold 6" from one long edge. Press.
• Fold the 6" side in half with the edge touching the crease. Press. The strip is now divided into three sections, 4 1/2", 3" and 3". Fold each 3" section in half and press. The strip is now divided into five sections, 4 1/2", 1 1/2", 1 1/2", 1 1/2" and 1 1/2".
• Fold the strip at the first pressed crease (the crease that is 1 1/2" from the edge).
• Using the 1/4" foot, stitch along the folded edge to create the first tuck.
• Fold the strip at the second crease and stitch, using the 1/4' foot. Repeat for the third crease.
• Fold the strip along the last crease. Match the edges of the strip and press, with the tucks facing away from the edges, toward the final fold.
• On the 4 1/2" side, fold under the edge 1/2" and press. Cut the strip to match the width of the sheet, plus 1".
• Change to the Accufeed Flex foot. This is the perfect foot for long seams.
• Pin the tucked strip to top sheet with right sides together, with an extra 1/2" at each end. The contrast trim will be sandwiched between the layers. Sew with a 1/2" seam.
• Fold the ends in half so that the tucked strip is right sides together. Stitch the ends. Turn right sides out, and press the ends. Press the seam toward the tucked strip and the contrast trim toward the sheet. Press the folded edge over the line of stitching and pin in place. Edge stitch from the right side, close to the contrast trim.
Bottom Sheet Instructions: No adjustments were made to the bottom sheet.
• Cut two of the contrast fabric strips to 41". Join the ends with a 1/2" seam to make a ring.
• Fold the strip in half lengthwise, and press.
• Fold the 10" strip of sheet fabric lengthwise with the fold 6" from one edge. Press.
• Fold the 6" side in half with the edge touching the crease. Press. The strip is now divided into three sections, 4 1/2", 3" and 3". Fold each 3" section in half and press. The strip is now divided into five sections, 4 1/2", 1 1/2", 1 1/2", 1 1/2" and 1 1/2".
• Fold the strip at the first pressed crease (the crease that is 1 1/2" from the edge).
• Using the 1/4" foot, stitch along the folded edge to create the first tuck.
• Fold the strip at the second crease and stitch, using the 1/4' foot. Repeat for the third crease.
• Fold the strip along the last crease. Match the edges of the strip and press, with the tucks facing away from the edges, toward the final fold.
• On the 4 1/2" side, fold under the edge 1/2" and press.
• Cut the tucked strip into two 41" sections. Sew the ends together for each section, creating a ring.
• Fold the coordinating print fabric in half with the 28" sides matching. Sew the sides with a 1/2" seam. Press the seam open. Sew across one end with a 1/2" seam. Turn right sides out and press. Repeat for the second pillowcase.
(Hint: The seam can also be sewn as a French seam for a more professional finish. To make a French seam, match the edges of the fabric WRONG sides together, and sew with a scant 1/4" seam. Scant 1/4"? Adjust the position of the needle to 5.0. Press the seam open, and turn wrong sides out. Stitch the seam a second time using a 1/4" seam. This will encase the raw edges, and create a beautiful, durable seam.)
• Add the contrasting trim to the open end of the pillowcase, matching the seams and edges. Pin.
• Add the tucked strip, with right sides together. Match edges and seams. Pin. The contrast trim should be sandwiched between the layers.
• Sew the tucked strip to the pillowcase with a 1/2" seam. Press the seam allowance toward the tucked strip, and the contrast trim toward the pillowcase.
• Press the folded edge of the strip to the inside of the pillowcase so that the fold covers the line of stitching. Pin. Edge stitch from the right side, close to the contrast trim. Repeat for the second pillowcase.
Pillow Sham Instructions:
• Fold each of the 6" strips in half lengthwise. Press.
• Fold the edges of each strip to match the center crease. Press.
• Using the 1/4" foot, stitch along each crease to form three tucks. Press the tucks to one side. Repeat for each strip. The completed strips should measure approximately 4 1/2" wide.
• Cut each strip into 4 1/2" segments. You will need 70 squares for two pillow shams.
• Arrange the tucked squares into 5 rows with 7 squares across. Place each square so that the tucks alternate, the first with tucks pointing down, the second with the tucks pointing to the right, the third with the tucks pointing down, the fourth with the tucks pointing to the right, etc. The desired look is a checkerboard effect.
• With a 1/4" foot, sew the squares together into rows. Sew the rows into a panel, with seams matching. Make a matching panel for the second pillow sham.
• Fold the 1" strips of contrast fabric in half lengthwise and press. Sew the contrast trim to each short end of the checkerboard panel. Trim to match the edges. Sew the remaining trim to the long edges of the checkerboard panel. Trim to match. Repeat for the second panel.
• Match the shorter borders to each end of the panel, and sew with a 1/4" seam. Press the seam allowance toward the border, and the trim toward the panel. Repeat for the second panel.
• Match the longer border strips to the remaining sides of the panel, and sew with a 1/4' seam. Press the seam toward the border, and the trim toward the panel. Repeat for the second panel. This completes the pillow sham tops.
• The four 18" x 25" panels are for the back of the pillow shams. On each panel, fold and press a 1" double hem along one of the 25" sides. On two of the panels, make three buttonholes in the double hem, spaced 5" apart.
• Overlap a plain panel with a buttonhole panel with right sides facing up. The hem with buttonholes will be directly on top of the double hem of the second panel. Baste across the hem ends within the 1/4" seam allowance.
• Layer the pillow sham lining, the batting and the pillow sham top, matching edges. Pin along the outer edge. Place the pillow sham back over the pillow sham top with right sides together, matching edges. Pin in place.
• With the Accufeed Flex foot, sew through all layers with a 1/2" seam. Trim away excess batting and trim corners. Turn right sides out through the back opening and press.
• On the right side of the pillow sham, pin or baste the layers together between the checkerboard squares and the borders. Stitch in the ditch between the borders and the checkerboards. Repeat for the second pillow sham.
• To complete the pillow shams, mark the position for the buttons under the buttonholes. Sew a 5/8" button at each mark.
