First Pick Your Shape
The truth is you can pick any shape you’d like to make this project.
Here is a template for the pocket that I made. This size might not be “ideal” for a working pocket but it is the size I needed to fit my garment. Your pocket can be any width or shape as long as you modify the welts to fit the opening.
Trace out your shape on your Facing fabric and place it outside your garment with right sides together. Determine the right placement for your design. Tip for pockets. Pay attention to how wide the opening is if you plan to use it for your hands. Also look at the placement in terms of actual use, is it too high, too low, maybe too far forward? It needs to feel like a good place to rest your hand to be “useable”.
Secure your placement with pins. Then, stitch your shape on your facing piece. You may go around twice if your fabric may be prone to raveling.
Next, trim out the inside of your shape leaving up to max ¼” around the stitched line. If your design has hard edges or points you will need to clip them. Be careful not to clip through your stitching.
Now it Is time to flip the design right side out and give it a good press. TIP: look at the design from the inside and “favor” the edge to the inside. If you look right at the stitching line you will want it to not be rolling toward the right side of the garment, but rather towards the inside.
Your pressed opening should look crisp and clean from the right side of the garment.
Here comes the fun part! Measure out welt (s) fold in half and press. This needs to be wide enough to clear your shape opening (I have two that meet in the middle). You will also need to account for your seam allowance. Just keep those in mind when cutting your strips. I have two separate folded edges meeting in the middle.
You need your welts to be visually pleasing on the outside so place them behind the garment as they will be seen and get an idea for how you need them to look.
Secure and check your placement with pins.
Now carefully stitch around your opening with 1/8” to ¼” accuracy. Keep it consistent whatever you choose. Pay attention during this step that all of your layers stay nice and flat and nothing folds up under on you while stitching around.
The project should look like this from the inside of the garment.
And this from the right side or outside of the garment.
To finish up the “pocket” you will need your pocket lining fabric. Start by using a long rectangle that is long enough to reach the top of the lips pocket, down to the fold and back up the bottom line of the welt (lips). Sew your bottom welt first (only to the facing fabric and welt fabric NOT to the outside garment) and then the top of the welt (lips). You will have a loop that’s open on each side. Next lay the garment down and press to see where the pocket folds flat (as shown). Then secure the sides of the pocket lining straight down. Make sure you are only sewing the pocket lining (sides only) so it is independent of the right side of the garment.
Time to enjoy and wear out your new garment. Best part, I can’t wait to tell everyone I MADE IT lol.
