Classic Color-Block Tote

Cut pieces as follows (½” seam allowance included):

I recommend cutting from the measurements below and then using this Placement Guide only.

• Pockets, 5 ½” x 8” (2 main, 2 interfacing)
• Short straps (for holding in hand, not wearing over shoulder) 3 ½” x 34” (2 contrast)

            --OR--

• Long straps (for wearing over the shoulder) 3 ½” x 50” (2 contrast)
• Bottom, 20” x 10” (1 contrast)
• Bag, 31” x 20” (1 main, 1 interfacing)
• Interior facing, 4.5”x20” (2 main, 2 interfacing)
• Interior lining, 27”x20” (1 lining)

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing pieces to to corresponding main pieces as instructed by manufacturer. Click here for the illustrated file.
2. Fold one short edge of each pocket piece down ¼” toward the wrong side and press. Fold down another ¼” toward the wrong side, and press again. Sew hem in place and set aside. Click here for the illustrated file. 
3. Fold both long edges of the bottom contrast piece down ¼” toward the wrong side and press. Fold down another ¼” toward the wrong side, and press again. DO NOT SEW hem at this time. Set aside. Click here for the illustrated file. 
4. Fold each strap in half lengthwise and sew two edges with a ¼” seam allowance. (Leave one of the short edges open for turning.) Clip the corners, turn out, press and set aside. Quick Turn tube turners are helpful for turning heavier-weight fabrics right-side-out. Click here for the illustrated file. 
5. Using double-sided basting tape (or pin and stitch with a wide stitch, if desired) and referring to the PDF pattern for placement, stick the pockets in place on the main section of the bag. Click here for the illustrated file. 
6. Align the two narrow edges of each strap with the bottom of each pocket, and attach with basting tape. Be sure to overlap the edges of the pockets so they will be secured when the handles are sewn to the bag. Click here for the illustrated file.
7. Starting where one of the handles meets with the top of the bag (and 1” away from top edge to allow for seaming the facing to the main portion of the bag), sew the strap to the bag. Finish with a barn-door configuration to reinforce the stitching. Continue securing the other side of the first strap and both sides of the second strap. Click here for the illustrated file. 
8. Apply contrast bottom to the bag using basting tape (or pin and stitch using a wide stitch). Sew in place at the top edges, making sure to overlap the bottom of the pocket and straps ends. Stitch baste to bag main along side seams. Click here for the illustrated file. 
9. Fold bag in half with right sides together, and sew side seams with a ½” seam allowance. Press seams open. Click here for the illustrated file. 
10. Pinch off a triangle on each bottom corner of the bag to give it a three-dimensional, boxy shape. Sew the triangle in place on each side. Trim away the excess fabric. Turn bag right-side-out and set aside. Click here for the illustrated file.
11. With right-sides together, sew each bag facing to the short edges of the bag lining. Press facing up away from lining and seams open. Click here for the illustrated file.
12. Fold bag lining/facing combo in half, right sides together, so the short edges come together. Sew side seams. Press seams open. Click here for the illustrated file.
13. Pinch off triangles at bottom corners of lining as you did for the main bag. Sew and trim.
14. Place main bag, right-side-out, inside of lining, right-side-in (so the two right sides are facing each other). Match up side seams and top edges. Pin together and sew, leaving a 3” opening for turning. Backstitch at beginning and end of stitching so stitches don’t rip during turning. Click here for the illustrated file.
15. Carefully turn bag right-side-out and press.
16. Top-stitch along top edge, making sure to close the turning hole.
17. Give bag one final press, and voila! You’re done!