Spring is the season that makes us all so very happy with more daylight hours, butterflies, and warmer temperatures but also has its fair share of sneezing! We were thrilled when Janome Maker Rachel from Oak Blue Designs submitted a project that is the perfect way to beautifully contain your sneezes by making your own handkerchiefs!

You can make these environmentally friendly handkerchiefs with lighter-weight fabrics or this could also be a wonderful upcycle using high-quality dress shirts or linen that is no longer being worn! Easy on the nose and the wallet! 

Handkerchiefs… I have a special nostalgia for handkerchiefs.  I have collected them from family members of past generations.  I’ve enjoyed looking for them when I go into an antique store. There’s something so special about a small square of cloth that people have kept close to them. I’ve appreciated the traditions behind hand-stitched handkerchiefs. That said, I thought it would be really fun to do a modern take on the traditional handkerchief. 

Today’s project is to make a handkerchief with a printed, lightweight garment fabric.  I loved the approach of making a handkerchief with a printed fabric.  Traditionally I’ve seen commercial and handmade handkerchiefs as non-printed fabrics. Whether you have scraps of linen, cotton voile, or cotton lawn lying around (or if this is your first time working with garment-weight fabrics), everyone can join in with this fun project. 

You will learn how to stitch a rolled hem and add personalized, machine-stitched initials.  If you have not yet practiced stitching a rolled hem, this project is a great project to jump in and learn the technique! With all of the steps for this project being on the sewing machine, you will save time and could also make more versions to share as gifts.  This is not a fast process but it is a very satisfying one. A rolled hem takes some time but the end result is so worth it!

The sewing machine used for this project is the Janome Skyline S9.  The sewing machine feet used are:

• Rolled hem foot D

• Open-toe satin stitch foot F2

Rolled hems make a perfect edge finishing detail for lightweight fabrics like chiffon and georgette. This is a great project to practice this technique.  Sewing with lightweight cotton or linen will be easier than sewing on sheer fabrics for a rolled hem (but this project is a great stepping stone to bridge the two fabric weights).  

Supplies:

• Rotary cutter & cutting mat

• 2.5” square ruler

• 12.5” square ruler

• Iron & ironing board/pad

• Tweezers

• 11” Art Gallery Fabrics Cotton voile, Blossom Swale Depth print, V-16803 

• Sewing machine thread 

• 75/11 sewing machine needle

• Tapered awl

• Fine embroidery scissors

• 2”x2” Iron-on tear-away stabilizer (Sulky Totally Stable™)

Rolled hem edge

The rolled hem foot should be attached to your machine for this section.  You may also reference page 86 in your Skyline S9 instruction book as well.

1. Cut fabric into a 10 ½ “ x 10 ½ “ square. Iron fabric.

2. Cut off all four corners, measuring ⅜” across the corner.  This step reduces bulk for the rolled hems. 

3. Lay the fabric with the wrong side facing up on an ironing board or ironing pad.  Slightly fold the edges of the fabric in and press flat, repeating around all four edges.

4. Fold the four edges of the fabric a second time.  Do not worry about measuring as in the previous step.  Pre-folding the edges in a double fold helps align the fabric for the rolled hem foot.

5. Set the machine for the rolled hem edge:

1. In the Home Screen, select the Garment icon.

2. Select the Rolled Hem icon.

3. The machine is ready to sew a rolled hem.

6. To help neaten the edge, you will need to pull up and lengthen the bobbin thread.  Hold the end of the topstitching (upper) thread with your hand.

7. While holding the top stitch thread, select the needle Up/Down button once and then a second time.

8. Pull the topstitching thread to bring the bobbin thread above the needle plate.  You may need to remove the presser foot at this step to more easily access the bobbin thread. With tweezers, pull the bobbin thread out so you have a longer length of the bobbin thread to hold away from the needle plate.

9. With the edge of the fabric folded under twice, set the fabric under the presser foot.  The fabric will not be inside the rolled spiral feature in the presser foot yet, the fabric will be flat, double folded under the presser foot.  

You can use the awl at this step to ensure the end of the fabric is flat and turned under.

10. Holding both the top stitch and bobbin threads with your hand, away from the fabric, start the first couple of stitches at a seam allowance in between ¼” and ⅛” to get the initial seam started.

11. With the needle in the down position, raise the presser foot.

12. Tuck the rolled hem into the swirl feature at the front of the rolled hem foot.

13. Lower the presser foot.

14. While holding the top thread/bobbin threads in your left hand, continue stitching the seam, keeping the double rolled edge inside the front swirl feature of the foot.  Once the seam has gotten past 2”, you don’t need to hold the top/bobbin threads.  If you need to re-adjust the placement of the fabric in the front swirl of the rolled hem foot, stop sewing with the needle in the down position and adjust fabric as needed.

15. Stitch all the way to the end of the seam, using an awl as needed to keep the end of the fabric double folded (the previous pre-ironing step the fabric in a double fold makes this step much easier).

16. As you get to the end of the seam, press the auto-lock button for three stitches to finish the end of the seam.  Do not forward/backstitch the beginning/ends of the seam as the material is thin and the threads will not finish well with a forward/backstitch.

17. Press the thread cut button to end the first seam.

18. Trim the ends of the threads at this step for a clean finish.

19. Using an iron, double fold and press the perpendicular edge of the fabric in the next seam that you are getting ready to sew.  Pressing will make starting the next double folded seam very easy.

20. You will repeat steps 6 - 19 for the next 3 edges of the fabric.  If you’re having a hard time getting the first stitches of the seam started with the feed dogs, use the thread tails to gently move the seam forward.  You can also raise the feed dog with the needle in the down position and readjust the fabric with the awl to move the fabric forward for the seam.

21. After stitching all four edges of the fabric with the rolled hems, iron the fabric, flattening all four neatly finished rolled edges.

Embroidered Initials

Cut a 2” square of the tear-away stabilizer for this step.  You will need to remove the Rolled Hem Foot from the sewing machine and install the Open toe satin stitch foot F2 for this section.

1. Pick the corner on your handkerchief to embroider the initials.

2. Find the shiny side of your stabilizer.  Turn the handkerchief so the wrong side of the fabric is facing up.  Lay the stabilizer so the shiny (adhesive) side is facing down in the corner that you plan to embroider the initials.

3. Set your iron to the appropriate settings (steam off, wool setting) and quickly baste the stabilizer square in place, pressing the corner of the handkerchief along the right side of the stabilizer/wrong side of the fabric.

4. Turn the handkerchief over so the right side is facing up and press the stabilizer again in place.

5. Let the fabric cool and then turn over the handkerchief to test the adhesion of the stabilizer.  If the stabilizer has not adhered to the fabric, repeat steps 3-4 for the stabilizer to fuse to the fabric.

6. Select the Monogram icon (A) to get to the Monogram screen.

7. Select the Script icon.

8. With the “large” icon selected and “upper case letter key” selected (as shown in the photo below), select the two or three letters to stitch your own initials. 

For this example, the RB letters were selected.  You can do your own variations for your project as well (add a period in between the letters, add different spacing in between the letters, etc.).  If you decide to stitch a name instead of initials, you will need to cut a larger piece of stabilizer than previously recommended.

9. As you place your fabric under the presser foot, keep in mind that the stitching will be vertically stitched.

10. Start stitching the initial stitches of your first letter in the monogram.  

11. After stitching the first couple of stitches, trim the long topstitch thread (for a cleaner finish).

12. When your stitches are finished, use the cut thread key to trim the end thread.

13. Using embroidery scissors, trim the stop stitched and bottom threads to neaten the finish.

14. With the wrong side of the fabric facing, gently peel back the stabilizer away from the fabric.

15. Pinch the embroidered stitches and gently tear away the extra stabilizer, away from the stitches.  If you need to use tweezers at this step, they are a helpful tool as well (just be gentle as you do this step).

16. Enjoy your finished, embroidered handkerchief!

Are you ready for Summer?  With the warmer weather approaching, it is a great time to add some fun details to your wardrobe with Janome Maker Janelle Marie! 

In this walk-through, Janelle will show you how she drafted her strawberry blouse from her Sloper (also known as a pattern Block). It’s a relatively quick project that doesn't require much fabric. This covers how to expand the paper pattern to create a new shape, adding new seams, creating folded ruffles, how to add shirring, ruffles, and extra fabric for buttons.

This whole pattern begins with a custom, well-fitting Sloper. A base on which it is infinitely more easy to draft a pattern than to start from scratch. You will need to have one of these already but if you do not, no worries! There are many great guides on how to do so. I drafted mine following Kim Dave’s YouTube tutorial. In the below photo you can see my sloper as well as some of the things you will need:

-Sloper/Bodice Block

-2 yds main fabric (I used 1 ½ cotton but if you want to pattern match you’ll need more)

-2 yds Single fold Bias tape (I made mine from the red and white checkered fabric shown but premade is fine)

-Approx. 6x14” Mid-weight Fusible interfacing (I happened to have black but any color is fine as it’ll be completely hidden)

-4-5 buttons

-Fray check

-Sewing machine and appropriate needles for your fabric

-A serger is helpful but not essential

-Iron and ironing board

-Fabric chalk/marker

-Pins or clips

-Good quality thread (Gutermann or better)

-Shirring (elastic) thread

-An empty bobbin

-Muslin or large scrap fabric for your mockup

-Ruler and Curve/Fashion ruler

-Scissors or rotary cutter

-Tape

-Pen, pencil, tracing wheel

1. Trace your front sloper onto a new sheet of paper with bust darts closed.  You want the excess fabric that comes with leaving the waist dart open. Once traced, bring in the shoulders about 1.5” (.75” on each side)  and drop the neckline 3”. This is where a curved ruler comes in handy to get nice, smooth lines. 

2. Next, you want the top of the underarm seams to be a 90-degree angle so drop it about ½” and extend the side out about ½” until you get a 90-degree point. Measure from your waist to where you want the bottom of the shirt to end on you and add that measurement plus 1” to the bottom of the front. 

3. You are going to repeat this process for the back without closing any darts. Bring in the shoulder to match the front and drop the back neckline approx. 2”. Extend the underarm out about ½” and lengthen the side seam to match the front.

4. Once you make those changes, cut out both the front and back pieces. Align and tape the shoulders to check that the lengths match and that the neckline and arms make smooth transitions into each other. Adjust accordingly and separate.

5. Align and tape together the side seams. Check that the lengths match and that the arm opening curve is smooth. If you want the front or back to be longer than the sides, leave it as is. If you want the bottom hem to be parallel, make those adjustments now. Separate.

6. Now it’s time to make a mock-up (or toile) and check the fit! Trace the pattern onto your muslin, making sure to mark where the waist is. Use a basting stitch and contrasting thread color to assemble. Don’t worry about finishing the arm/neck holes and hem nicely. Cut those areas at the line, leaving no seam allowance. Also, don’t worry about adding extra fabric for the button closures. Just sew up the back as if there is no opening. You should still be able to slide it over your head. After the sides and shoulders are sewn, try it on without turning it! It should sit comfortably but not tightly.

7. I ended up dropping the neckline another inch and widening it out slightly. Use a pen or marker to make your adjustments directly onto the fabric if desired. Then mark the vertical line you would like your ruffles to emerge from on the front and back. Going a little wider at the top and bringing them in closer together towards the waist helps create the illusion of a smaller waist, which is how I placed mine. Once this is marked, take a ruler and measure how wide you want your ruffles to be at the shoulders, shoulder blades, and at bust. Mark measurements and placement onto the fabric. Mine was 2” at the shoulder, 1” at the bust, and shoulder blades. Mark your waist if it does not match the one previously marked and decide how wide you want your shirring to be. Mine was 1.5” wide

8. Once all of these markings and measurements have been made, remove the mock-up and undo the front, back, and shoulder stitches. Lay flat. Use your curve ruler to make the newly marked lines smooth and elegant. Mark the to-be-shirred section at the waist clearly. Tape your paper pattern together at the sides, lay your mock-up on top and transfer the changes using a pencil and/or tracing wheel. Cut along the ruffle lines to create 3 pattern sections. Front center, side, and back center.

9. Now, if you are happy with your mock-up, it's time to cut out your real fabrics! We will start with the ruffles. On your pattern, measure the length from your front waist to your shoulder and then from your shoulder to the back waist. These together are the length of your ruffles. But, in order to make them, you know, ruffle, multiply that number by 1.75 or 175%. That is the length of fabric you will need to make each of your ruffles. To figure out the width, take your widest ruffle measurement (mine was 2”), add ½” for seam allowance and multiply it by 2. Mine totals 5”

         Length                                                  Width

(Desired length X 1.75)   by   (Desired width + seam allowance) X 2

10. With a clear plan as to how all of your pieces are going to fit onto your fabric (I like to draw a little map as shown below), cut out your ruffle strips and fold in half, right sides facing out. Mark where the shoulder seam, bust, and shoulder blade points will meet (initial measurement x 1.75) and mark their widths. Draw a smoothly transitioning line between the points, with both ends tapering to 1”. Cut off excess on raw edges, leaving the fold intact. 

11. Iron flat and use the gather stitch to sew two even, parallel lines of stitches ¼” and ⅖” away from the raw edges, leaving several inches of thread at each end. I like to use two different colors of thread for my bobbin and top threads to help differentiate the ends. While holding the bobbin threads, push the fabric together to create the ruffle. Match its length to the measured length of the bodice slits and tie off threads to hold in place. Put aside.

12. Layout your bodice pieces onto your folded fabric. Front center on the fold. Back next to it with several inches of space next to the center back (where we will add fabric for the buttons). Place the side piece below these both. Trace all pieces and onto fabric using chalk or erasable marker/pen. Make sure to mark the waist section to be shirred and any other connection points.

13. With the back piece on the fabric and traced, extend the center back 2.5”. End the extension at the top of the shirred portion as that will be a straight seam. This will become the button panel. Add seam allowances to all except the center edge of the extension and cut out. It should look like the far right image below:

14. Next, we are going to add some interfacing to the button panel. Measure the length of the newly added button panel including seam allowances and the width from the original center backline to the raw edge. Cut out two pieces of interfacing with these measurements. Lay your back pieces on your ironing board with the interfacing in place and press. Flip and press again. Fold over ¼” of the vertical center back raw edge and press. Repeat for the other side. 

15. Gather your shirring thread, an empty bobbin and a whole lot of patience. To wind your bobbin, put the end of the shirring thread through the hole of your bobbin and wind it with only enough tension to make it lay smooth. It shouldn’t be stretching at all. Try and wind in evenly back and forth so there are no center or side bumps. Fill in as much as you think your shirt will need. I wound mine just over half full. Pop it into your machine or bobbin case and thread it as normal. On mine, I had to hold the bobbin in place and pull with some tension to get it to go through the final curve of the bobbin holder. Thread the upper thread as normal, using a color that matches your fabric. Use this to pull up your bobbin thread and leave several inches of tails. Your machine should be set to a straight stitch. Depending on how much you want it to gather, that will determine your stitch length. The longer the stitch, the more it will gather. Mine was set at a length of 4.

16. Practice a few times on a scrap of fabric to make sure your settings are right. It will not look like it is gathering much at all until your 3rd or 4th row so do several rows. Do NOT use your automatic thread cutter or the elastic thread will spring back inside your machine. Always leave 3-4” of tails. Once you are happy with the settings, begin on your actual pieces on the markings you made. Backstitch at every beginning and end of a row to hold your shirring thread in place. I would recommend not cutting the threads after each row but instead turning and continuing while still backstitching at each beginning and end. Sew rows approx. ¼ - ½” from each other depending on the look you want to achieve. I sewed 7 rows ¼” apart. If they are not gathering as much as you would like, use your iron to steam the shirring a little until it contracts. Do NOT touch the iron to the fabric or thread or your thread could melt. Finish all 5 sections.

All of your pieces should look like this:

17. After you are happy with all of your shirring, it’s time to assemble! Start by connecting the shoulder pieces of the front center and back centers. Sew, serge (if desired), and press backward. Next connect the shoulder portions of the side pieces to themselves, forming the complete armhole. Sew, serge (if desired), and press backward.

You should now have three separate pieces and two ruffles, like this:

18. Begin adding the ruffles by first sewing the front center and front of the side panels together to just above the shirred waist. Sandwich one ruffle strip between the front and side piece, aligning the bust, shoulder, and shoulder blade mark you previously made. Pin together until you reach the bottom of the back of the shirt. The ruffle should end just above the shirred waist at the back. Repeat for the other side. Sew these pieces together with a basting stitch and check to see if you are happy with the placement. If everything is ever, sew with a straight stitch, serge, and press (avoiding the shirred waist).

19. We are nearing the finish line! Now it’s time to finish the neck and arm openings with some bias tape. I made mine with checkered cotton to give it a pop of color but using premade is absolutely fine! Measure and cut the needed lengths to go all around the neckline to the very edges of the stabilized button panel and the armholes with an overlap of at least an inch. Pin the bias tape to the neckline, making sure the crease closest to the edge lands exactly where you want your neckline edge to be. Straight stitch along that crease.

20. For the armholes or any closed circle openings, I like to begin pinning the bias tape under the arm with the tip folded over towards you. That way, when the end of the bias tape is pinned in place, it holds the fold in place and when you turn it, there are no raw edges showing. Again, pin the bias tape where the crease closest to the raw edge is exactly where you want the opening to be. Straight stitch along that crease. Trim off any extra fabric that extends past the bias tape.

21. Fold over, iron and pin the bias in place. With the bias tape pinned in place, topstitch it in place. You can use a straight stitch ¼” from the edge or a decorative one like I have.

22. Sew and serge the back center from the top of the shirred waist to the bottom raw edge. Serge entire bottom edge and fold up and under ½-1”. Iron and pin in place. Use the stretch zig zag stitch to finish.

22. Now for the final step! The buttons! Fold in the vertical raw edges of the button panel ¼” and press. Fold up the bottom edge of each panel ¼”. Fold them in again until that same vertical folded edge touches the edge of interfacing and slightly overlaps it, hiding it. Sew a straight line ¼” from that double folded edge. Pin both panels in place, one on top of each other, and mark your desired buttonhole placements. I did 5 total. Unpin and use your machine to sew buttonholes to match your button size.

23. Fray check each sewn buttonhole and iron to dry quickly. Cut open your buttonholes, pin panels in place again, and use your removable pen or mark to mark where each button needs to be placed. I like to run the pen up and down the buttonhole and then determine the halfway point of the mark. Measure between each button placement to check if they are even. Use your machine to sew your buttons on by hand. With your button panels buttoned-up, pin the bottom edge of your outermost button panel and sew it in place! Viola! You're done! Step back, ignore the tiny mistakes we all make, and breathe in your accomplishment! Pop it on and give yourself a hug!

After you finish making your amazing top, please be sure to snap a photo and share! 

We don’t want to miss out so be sure to tag:

@janomemaerica

@seams.come.true

And hashtag:

#janome

#janomemakes

Decorative stitches can be used in so many ways! These stitches are often kept for special occasions and not utilized in everyday sewing and almost never in quilting. Janome Maker Eliane from Patchwork & Poodles is going to show you how to to use a few of these stitches to create lovely quilting with ease!

If you are just starting to quilt, this is a great way to get comfortable with handling the feel of the quilt when quilting. For the more experienced quilter, This can be your go-to when you need that fast finish for a gift or service quilts! No matter what the case, you will be thrilled by the results you can achieve with this method!

Hi, I’m Eliane from Patchwork & Poodles! I’m a quilt pattern designer, which means I make a lot of quilts. I also primarily quilt all of these at home on my Janome MC6700P machine.

While straight-line quilting is a fast way to finish a work in progress, I found myself bored of quilting the same way all the time. If you’re in the same boat, read on! You’ll find three decorative stitches you can use in your quilting, and none of them take more time than normal straight-line quilting! 

The Set-Up:

You’ll need to put your walking foot on your machine and mark some lines on your quilt. I like to use a Hera marker to mark my lines, but tape, a chalk pencil, or a water-soluble marker works well too. If you’d like to see more information about marking a quilt, watch Eliane's video:

. 

VI recommends that your marking lines serve as a guide for the edge of your walking foot instead of your needle. This makes it easier to follow. Luckily, all three of these stitches are pretty forgiving, so even if you end up going a bit crooked, no one will notice!

Tips for success:

• Practice on some scraps first to see what you like.  You can vary the width of the stitches for a wider or narrower design to suit the quilt you’re quilting.

• Go slow! You should always stitch slowly with a walking foot, and this is no exception. If your machine can regulate speed, set that up so you’re not tempted to press the pedal to the metal.

• Gently guide your quilt, don’t force it through the machine.

The stitch widths and lengths provided below are a great starting point. Start there and then play around to find your favorite combination!

Three-Step Zig-Zag:

Three-Step Zig-Zag on a Zippy Quilt

This fun stitch creates a wide zig-zag that is made up of multiple individual stitches. This one adds a really nice crinkle effect when the quilt is washed and adds a playful touch to any quilt. Vary the stitch length and width until you like the results. Just be sure that your individual stitches aren’t too small!

Stitch: 011

Stitch Width: 7.0

Stitch Length: 2.5 

The Serpentine Stitch:

The Serpentine Stitch on Summer Glow Quilt (Free Pattern!)

The serpentine stitch adds quilted waves to your quilt and is a good one to use if you want to soften a very angular quilt. Vary the stitch width to create a wider serpentine stitch. This is also a great stitch to use for water/ocean-themed quilts.

Stitch: 096

Stitch Width: 9.0

Stitch Length: 3.0

The Scallop Stitch:

Scallop Stitch on Etoile Quilt

This stitch is probably my favorite as it is so versatile. You can create the scallops right side up to look like lace or ocean waves, or upside down to look like clouds. 

Stitch: 111

Stitch Width: 9.0

Stitch Length: 2.5

After you try this method, be sure to take photos and share!   

Father's Day comes at a great time of year for the dad that enjoys fishing and a summer fishing trip with a new fishing pole-carrying bag makes a perfect and relaxing afternoon.

Janome Maker Heidi Proffetty has just what the Fishing Dad in your life will treasure! A free tutorial for a fishing pole bag using her Janome Continental M7!  Not only does the carrying bag sew up in a jiffy, but the fabric is also made from is waxed canvas which is both durable and water-resistant. You can also customize this bag. Make alterations to the overall length to fit Dad’s specific fishing pole length and change the bag’s accent panel to give it that extra special touch. Give him something he will love using the rest of this summer and beyond. 

Skill Level: Beginner 

Makes: 1 Fishing Pole Bag 

Dimensions: 48” Length x 10” Width

Time: 1 ½ hours

Before You Begin: 

Measure the fishing pole’s length and width around the reel (if the reel is attached). This will determine your specific dimensions and the amount of fabric that you will need for this project. This project is suited for a lightweight, freshwater, 4.6” to 5” fishing pole with an approximate 10” diameter (attached) reel. 

Project Supplies:

1 ½ yards of waxed cotton canvas fabric, Color: Moss

½ yard novelty upholstery or canvas fabric, Pattern: Fishing

24” x 1 ½” webbing or belt strapping 

20” piece of cording and a cord stop

2 – 2” x 3” twill patches

General color matching sewing thread for construction

Scissors

Fabric marking chalk pen (light colored)

Cutting mat, rotary cutter & ruler

Mini clips (not pins)

Compass

Glue Stick

Janome Continental M7, Overcasting M foot & HP foot & plate

Part 1 – Cut Fabric

Use your rotary cutter, cutting mat, and ruler. 

1. Cut 1 – 35 ½” x 12 ½” piece of waxed fabric

2. Cut 1 – 5 ½” x 12 ½” piece of waxed fabric

3. Cut 1 – 10 ½” x 12 ½” piece of novelty fishing fabric

Part 2 – Sewing Instructions

Set your sewing machine up with the Overcasting M Foot (or serger). Use mini clips to hold the right sides of the fabric together at each end. Position the novelty fabric so that the fabric is facing in the upright direction (not upside down) to the top section of the bag.

On the outside of the bag, using the fabric marking chalk pen, mark a center indications at 1 ½”, 6 ½”, and 24” down from the top edge of the bag. Next, draw a vertical centering line from 1 ½” mark to the 24” mark. 

The 6 ½” mark will be the guideline for the top edge of the shoulder strap and the 24” mark will be the guideline for the bottom edge of the shoulder strap.

On the wrong side of bag, use a glue stick to temporarily secure a twill patches to both ends where the strap will be sewn . The patches provide extra support for any tugging on the shoulder strap.

Using a chalk pen, mark indications on the strap, 2 ½” down from the top and bottom edges.

Fold the strap under a ½” at each end, sew the strap onto the right side of the bag at the 6 ½” & 24” markings you made. 

To securely hold the strap to the bag, stitch on top of the strap around all 4 sides creating a box. Stitching close to the outer edges. Inside the stitched box, mark an X from corner to corner. Then stitch on top of the X markings you made. Repeat this for each end of the strap.

Trim the excess fabric around twill patches close to stitching but be careful not to cut bag’s fabric.

For neat inside seams, serge or fold the raw edges ¼” under twice. Using mini clips to hold folded edges in place. Then sew close to the folded edge. 

To create the casing for drawstring at top of the bag, fold the fabric under twice ½”. Then sew close to the folded edge, creating an opening for the cording to pass through.

Place right sides of the bag together, hold edges secure using mini clips, and tucking the strap inside the bag out of the way. Starting approximately 4 ½” from the top edge of the casing (top of bag), backstitch, then stitch (or serge) down the side seam or edge of the bag. This closes the bag and will create a long tube with a 4 ½’ opening at the top.

Use a compass to mark and cut a 2” diameter circle from a leftover piece of waxed canvas. Fold the circle in quarters and mark to create temporary alignment markings.

Starting at the seam on the bag, mark 4 (90 degrees) cross indications around inside bottom edge of the tube. Using the 4 cross markings on the cut circle to align with the markings on the inside bottom of the tube. Use mini clips and attach the cut circle to the tube aligning bottom edges evenly. Using HP Foot and HP plate (or your preferred sewing foot) to sew ¼” around inside bottom edge.

Part 4 – Finishing the Bag

Turn the bag right sides out.

Using a safety pin attached to one end of the cording, work the cord through the casing. Add a cord lock and tie a secure knot at the end. Add a dab of glue to the cord ends to keep them from unraveling. 

Now this fishing pole carrying bag is ready to go on Dad’s next fishing trip!

Happy Sewing and Happy Father’s Day!

Heidi

www.heidi@heidiproffetty.com

Making your own handbags is a great way to be able to customize your look no matter what the season or occasion! 

Janome Maker Trish from Trish Stitched designed a new pattern just for you to start your bag-making journey! This DIY crossbody bag is perfect for those gorgeous large-scale fabrics but can also just a fab as an ophan quilt blocks bag! By using this pattern, it is your bag and your rules!

YOU WILL NEED:

- Upholstery or Heavy Weight Cotton (Exterior)
- Quilting Cotton (Lining & Pockets)
- (2x) D-ring (3/4")
- (1x) slide buckle (3/4")
- (1x) Tongue Lock Close (or similar closure)
- (1x) 7” Metal Zipper

Interfacing optional: Apply to the wrong side of the fabric. Lightweight iron-on Interfacing on the lining pieces and heavyweight iron-on interfacing on the exterior pieces. (For heavier weight fabrics, no interfacing needed on straps and strap pieces)

EXTERIOR FABRIC

Cut 1 of each
- Body: 18" x 11.5”
- Flap: 9” x 6.5”
- Strap: 58” x 2”
- Strap Piece: 6” x 2”

LINING FABRIC

Cut 1 of each
- Body: 18" x 11.5”
- Flap: 9” x 6.5”

POCKET FABRIC

Cut 2
- Pockets: 9” x 7”

(Strap Notes: Fabric not long enough? Cut 2 pieces 29" x 2" and sew together)

Create Back Zipper Pocket

Stitch open end of zip together on machine or by hand. Mark zipper placement (7" x 3/8" rectangle, centered) on wrong side of one pocket piece 1 1/2” down. Draw a line in the center of your rectangle with two small V’s on the ends.
Place right sides of back pocket piece and exterior bag back piece together so your rectangle is 2” down from top. Stitch exterior rectangle. Cut center line of rectangle open, and cut into corners of the V’s. Cut close but not through stitching. Feed pocket through to wrong side. Press pocket.
Line up zipper with the pocket opening. You can use hem tape or pins to keep the zipper in place. Stich around the zipper, securing zipper in place. With right sides together, sew pocket pieces together to finish the pocket.

Sew Bag Body Together

With right sides together, fold front and back of the bag together and sew bag sides. Press side seams open and folds each bag bottom to form a corner. Mark a line 2" long. Sew and trim seamline. Repeat steps for bag lining pieces.

Make Front Flap & Bag Strap

On one long side of flap pieces, curve two corners. Stitch right sides of flap lining and exterior together, leaving the non-curved long end open. (Draw curve for easier stitching). Clip curves and turn right sides out. Press and topstitch flap. Take the strap and press both long and short edges in ¼”. Fold and press long sides in half.
Stitch all the way around the strap, and repeat for strap piece. Cut strap piece in half, making two equal strap pieces. Feed each strap piece through a D-ring and clip or pin raw edges together.

Finish Bag Body

Line up center of strap piece with the side of the bag. (I stitched 1/2" down from the raw edge of strap piece to make my strap piece shorter, but this is up to you!) Baste bag flap to bag back, right sides together,  and side straps to sides of the bag, right sides together.
With right sides together, sew bag lining to exterior, matching seams. Leave a 4" gap free in the front of bag. Turn bag right side out, pushing corners out and pushing lining into the bag. Press.
Following hardware instructions, attach tongue lock. On bag front, my tongue lock attached 3 3/4" down from edge. Topstitch bag closed. TIP: If your strap pieces are thick, hammer them before top stitching to reduce bulk while sewing.
Take finished end of strap and feed through center of slide buckle leaving roughly 1 1/2” free. Stitch down. With wrong side of strap facing up, feed other  end of strap through bag D-ring. Feed the strap through the slide buckle. Continue to feed the strap through the remaining D-ring. Sew end of strap down.

Enjoy Your New Bag!