Topstitching Tips & Tricks on the HD9

1. Thread
   • I find that a strong, heavy duty thread (like Gütermann Mara 30) is a great thread to highlight topstitching and will make your stitches stand out (more than using regular thickness sewing thread).
     • A thinner thread option (like Gütermann Mara 70) is still thicker than regular sewing thread, but thinner than the Mara 30 thread.

Note: the bobbin thread can and should remain a regular sewing thread thickness. You don’t need to wind a thicker thread bobbin, as this thread will be on the “wrong side” of your fabric and won’t be showing on the “right side”

2. Needle
   • I like to use a heavy duty needle to:
     • Ensure that the needle can pierce & sew through (presumably) thick fabrics like denim or canvas, and
     • Can accommodate thicker thread like topstitching thread.

Note: “topstitching” needles have a slightly larger eye for ease of threading through thick sewing thread compared to “denim” needles and other types of needles.

3. Presser Foot 
   • The HD9 Professional comes with two feet: standard & rolled hem. If you are sewing on a regular machine, then using the walking foot is a good idea. You can use it for topstitching AND regular sewing and it is a great foot for sewing evenly over many layers of fabric and/or thick fabrics.
   • An alternative foot to use is the “edgestitch” or “¼”” foot, which lets you sew close to an edge of fabric (commonly done with topstitching) and keeps your stitch line nice & neat.
   • You can adjust the foot pressure using the foot pressure dial
     • Usually set at “3” for regular sewing
     • Lower level to “1” for finer fabrics

4. Slow & Steady
   • I feel like this tip has been shared many times by many people, but I cannot emphasize it enough! It makes a huge difference if you slow down your sewing speed while topstitching.
   • You are less likely to make mistakes and your stitches will look even and straight, I promise.

5. Machine Settings
   • Stitch length
     • Any length between 3.0-4.0mm is a common stitch length for topstitching
   • Tension for Thread
     • Ideally, you want an even balance of tension between the needle thread and the bobbin thread.
     • Getting the right tension settings on your machine is crucial to good quality topstitching! These settings will vary by machine and by fabric type (material, thickness) so it’s good to know how to troubleshoot what direction to go in.
     • For the most part, adjusting the needle thread tension is the way to go, but every once in a while you may also need to adjust your bobbin thread tension.
     • Needle Thread Tension
       1. LOW = upper topstitch thread pulled to wrong side
          • Adjusting needle thread tension = turn the needle thread tension dial clockwise to tighten (increase tension) or counterclockwise to loosen (decrease tension)
       2. EVEN = balanced on both sides
          • The needle & bobbin threads interlock in the center of the two layers of fabric in straight seams
       3. HIGH = lower bobbin thread pulled to right side
          • Adjusting needle thread tension = turn the needle thread tension dial clockwise to tighten (increase tension) or counterclockwise to loosen (decrease tension)
          • Can also adjust needle thread tension by the thread guide
            • Adjust plate to right or left to adjust needle thread tension then tighten adjusting screw when preferred position achieved.
       4. Bobbin Thread Tension
          • Bobbin tension may be too low if there are NO defined stitches on either side
          • You can adjust your bobbin thread tension by turning the screw on the bobbin case clockwise to tighten (increase tension) or counterclockwise to loosen (decrease tension).
       5. Presser Foot Pressure
          • If adjusting the needle and bobbin thread tensions isn’t enough to achieve a balanced topstitching. You can lower the pressure to reduce friction/fabric pulling as you feed your fabric through.

6. Test Stitch
   • Grab a scrap piece of fabric to test out topstitching lengths. As nice as it would be to just immediately sew into your project, seam ripping is a DRAG. So be nice to yourself and test it out first to decide on the best stitch settings for your project 🙂
   • This is also a good time to check thread tension and overall machine settings!

7. Reduce Bulky Seams
   • This tip is often skipped, but can make a world of difference! Trim your bulky seams and grade them to minimize all that fabric bunching along your seam line. This will let you press and flatten the seam as much as possible, which will only help you in the long run when topstitching over it.

8. No Backstitching
   • For thick topstitching thread, backstitching can lead to knotted thread and a jammed machine. Instead, when you start sewing, hold onto thread ends to prevent any thread knotting.
   • This will also set you up to tie thread ends on the wrong side

9. Hump Jumper
   • Usually, when you first start topstitching, you are starting on the edge of some thick fabric. This can lead to skipped or uneven stitched.
   • To prevent this, try using a “hump jumper” – this can be store bought or a quick homemade version by folding some scrap fabric or cardboard and placing it behind your fabric edge to keep your presser foot evenly balanced and level.
   • Use at the start of sewing thick layer of fabrics to keep presser foot level