Level: Beginner - Advanced

The Memory Craft 10000 makes creating beautiful heirlooms a breeze. The delicate finishes and embellishment are easily combined in this heirloom daygown. Coni chose pintucks, French knots, decorative stitching, lace shaping and embroidered bows to adorn her baby daygown.

Janome Supplies Required:

• Memory Craft 10000
• Any Janome serger
• PC Design Card #1002 (Heirloom Collection)
• Clothsetter 10000
• Standard Hoop A
• Embroidery foot P
• Satin Stitch foot F
• Buttonhole foot R
• Button Sewing foot T
• Pintuck foot (Deep Groove)
• Beading foot Set
• Janome Embroidery thread
• Janome Bobbin thread
• Blue Tip needle 75/11

Fabric and Notions Required:

• Daygown pattern
• 1 3/4 yd. white Nelona batiste
• 2 yds. 1/2" insertion lace
• 2 1/4 yds. 3/4" edging lace
• 1 1/4 yds. Entredeux
• 1/2 yd. 1/8" elastic
• 2 spools Mettler(R) #60 (white)
• Twin needle
• Wing needle
• Lace shaping board
• Iron-on tear-away stabilizer
• Stitch and Ditch paper stabilizer
• Ruler with 45∫ angle markings
• Water-soluble marker
• Six 3/8" buttons

Coni used a pattern from Martha Pullen's book "Elegant Sewing For Baby".
For ordering information:
Martha Pullen Co.
149 Big Old Cove Road
Brownsboro, AL 35741
(800) 547-4176
www.marthapullen.com

Download and print the PDF of the Lace Shaped Bow Pattern (see link at top of page).
Enlarge printed out pattern by 127% so that bow is 13" wide. Your printer may vary.

Front Bodice Fabric Preparation:

1. Fold fabric in half lengthwise. Tear in half. Place one half aside for back.
2. On remaining piece mark at 29" width.
3. Tear 29" block for front. Set remaining fabric aside for sleeves.
4. Press 29" block in half lengthwise.
5. Mark 7" from top on fold line. This is the bottom of the "V" of lattice.
6. Mark a 45∞ angle from the center fold using the mark as bottom to create a "V".
7. Continue to mark at 1" intervals creating a grid of diamonds.
8. Press the Ordinary Sewing Mode key.
9. Attach the Pintuck foot. Insert the twin needle.
10. Thread the needle and bobbin with the Mettler thread. Use the auxiliary spool pin for the 2nd spool. Hint: Place an additional large spool cap underneath the 2nd spool of thread on the auxiliary spool pin.
11. Select Straight stitch #1. Adjust the length to 1.5 and tension to 8.6.
12. Press the Needle UP/Down key on screen to memorize needle down.
13. Insert twin needle. Attach deep groove pintuck foot.
14. Sew along the "V" starting at one shoulder, stopping at the point of the V with needle in the fabric. Hint: Turn the handwheel to barely raise the needle enough to pivot and sew remaining side of the V.
15. For all remaining rows in lattice grid, start at the shoulder line and sew toward the first sewn V. Stop one stitch before reaching the sewn "V". Keep the needle in the fabric. Press the Quick Command Lock Stitch key. Sew until machine stops.
16. Sew all lines going in the same direction, then sew lines starting at the opposite shoulders edge.
17. Place front pattern piece on folded block of pintucked fabric.
18. Cut front of daygown after lining up top edges and front center fold.

Sleeve Fabric Preparation

1. Short sleeve is altered by adding a center fold line on the pattern, creating two inches more fullness in cap and sleeve hem edge.
2. Use the small block of fabric to cut two blocks of fabric 14" x 8".
3. Fold in half width wise and use fold to establish angle line. Mark 45∞ grid on blocks for sleeves, at 1" intervals. Lines will form a point at cap of sleeve.
4. Draw a line each side of the "V" drawn to complete markings.
5. Sew outer lines as above.
6. Sew all lines going from one side of sleeve to the other in same direction. Start at bottom of sleeve. Stop one stitch before reaching the sewn "V". Keep the needle in the fabric. Press the Quick Command Lock Stitch key. Sew until machine stops.
7. Repeat sewing grid lines in opposite direction.
8. Use the amended pattern piece for cap sleeve. This gives a full sleeve cap that will be gathered.
9. Lay the sleeve pattern on each sleeve block separately, and cut.

French Knots

1. Mark the center of all diamonds within grid on the front and sleeves for French Knot placement.
2. Insert a Blue Tip needle 75/11. Attach the small Beading foot.
3. Press the Decorative Stitch tab. Select French Knot stitch #70.
4. Adjust the length to 0.00 and tension to 8.2. Note: Be sure the MC10000 is in Professional Mode to adjust length to 0.00.
5. Press the Combine key.
6. Press the right Cursor key to memorize.
7. Select Locking Stitch. Press the right Cursor key to memorize.
8. Layer two sheets of Stitch and Ditch paper stabilizer under fabric.
9. Sew a 1st French knot. Sew from left of rows to right, as thread will trail easier. Hint: Use knee lever to raise presser foot and continue to next dot in row.
10. Sew all French knots on all marks on front and two sleeves.
11. Trim all threads on front and back between knots.
12. Tear away stabilizer

Front Bodice Decorative Stitching

1. Draw a line on center fold line at tip of "V" down 2". This line will be where first stitch is taken for each side of rows.
2. Attach the Satin Stitch foot F.
3. Thread the needle and bobbin with Janome Embroidery thread.
4. Layer two sheets of stitch and ditch under the area surrounding the "V".
5. Press the Decorative Stitch tab. Select Decorative stitch #43.
6. Aligning the right edge of the foot next to the first row of pin tucks, and starting on the drawn center line, sew the first row on the right side of the "V". At the shoulders edge, touch the Lock Stitch Quick Command key to assure pattern completely finishes. Note: This is important to assure that you start the next row on the first stitch of the pattern.
7. To sew pattern on left of V, press the Flip Horizontal key. Line the right side of the foot with the first row of pintucks. Start with needle penetrating on the marked center line.
8. Select Decorative stitch #124.
9. Start on center line, and guide left side of the foot along bottom edge of previous stitching. Press the Lock Stitch key at end of row.
10. For second row on left side of "V", press the Flip Horizontal key. Line up and sew as before.
11. For third row, select Decorative stitch #43 again. Press the Flip Horizontal key.
12. Sew on right side of "V". Press the Horizontal Flip key again. Sew on left side of "V".
13. Tear away all remnants of stabilizer.

Professional-Style Embroidery

1. Set up the MC10000 for Professional-Style Embroidery.
2. Insert PC Design Card #1002 (Heirloom Collection) into machine.
3. Press the Embroidery Mode key.
4. Press the Edit tab.
5. Press the PC Card tab. Select Design #6.
6. Press the Hoop Size key. Select Hoop A.
7. Press the Color key. Change all colors to White 001.
8. Mark a small cross on center fold 3 3/4" below point of "V" decorative stitching.
9. Stabilize fabric.
10. Place bodice front in the hoop using the Clothsetter for perfect placement.
11. Trim threads and remove tear-away stabilizer.

Lace Shaped Bow

1. Trace the bow template on the Daygown front, positioning the knot of the bow 9" above the raw hem at the center fold.
2. Cut 1 1/4 yards of insertion lace and tie in a loose bow.3. Using glass headed pins shape bow on front fabric atop the lace shaping board. Match traced outline, pulling up heading as necessary to shape curves
3. Re-pin all corners off lace shaping board.
4. Press the Ordinary Sewing Mode key.
5. Attach the Satin Stitch foot F.
6. Select Zig-zag stitch #8. Adjust the width to 1.0 and length to 1.0.
7. Press the Needle UP/Down key on screen to memorize needle down.
8. Sew around entire bow, sewing on top layer of lace only.
9. Insert the wing needle.
10. Press the Decorative Stitch tab. Select Appliquè stitch #84. Adjust the width to 2.0 and length to 2.5.
11. Pinstitch around bow, on top layer when they cross.
12. Hint: Use the knee lever to help with smooth pivoting.

Sleeve Finish

1. Cut two strips of entredeux the width of the sleeve hem edge.
2. Cut two pieces of insertion lace the same width.
3. Cut two pieces of edge lace twice the width of the entredeux and insertion lace.
4. Trim batiste from one side of the entredeux pieces.
5. Select Zig-zag stitch #8. Adjust stitch width to 2.5 and length to 1.5.
6. Butt insertion lace to trimmed edge of entredeux. Stitch
7. Repeat for second sleeve.
8. Divide the edge lace into fourths and mark.
9. Divide the sewn lace into fourths and mark.
10. Pull up heading thread on edge lace and butt next to the insertion lace, matching marks.
11. Adjust stitch length to 0.8.
12. Attach the lace-to-lace using a zig-zag.
13. If necessary, trim batiste on remaining edge of entredeux to 1/4".
14. Place right side of entredeux and lace strip to the right side of the sleeve.
15. Select Straight stitch #1. Stitch in the ditch. Trim this seam to 1/8".
16. Select Zig-zag stitch #8. Adjust width to 3.0 and length to 1.0.
17. Whip and roll edge.
18. On wrong side of sleeves mark 1/2" up from entredeux on sleeve and draw line.
19. Cut 7" of 1/8" elastic for each sleeve.
20. Attach elastic on wrong side of each sleeve at one side edge.
21. Adjust Zig-zag stitch width to 5.0 and length to 2.0.
22. Stretch elastic from attached edge and sew over the elastic as you stretch to the other edge of the sleeve.
23. Secure the second edges with a straight stitch.
24. Make a mark 3 1/2" from the center of each sleeve cap.
25. Adjust Straight stitch length to 3.5. Sew two gathering lines 1/8" and 1/4" from the cap's edge between marks.

Back Fabric Preparation

1. Cut two backs using the back pattern. (Place line #3 on selvages)
2. Sew front backs at shoulders using a 1/4" seam. Finish seam on serger.
3. Pin sleeve caps into arm curves pulling up gathering threads to fit.
4. Sew in 1/4" seam. Finish seam on serger.
5. Pin front to back at underarm seams, at elastic, and to hemline.
6. Sew in 1/4" seam. Finish seam on serger.

Neckline Finish

1. Cut a piece of entredeux the length around the neck with the back facings extended.
2. Cut a piece of edging lace twice this length.
3. Mark both pieces in fourths with a water-soluble marker.
4. Gather the edging lace by pulling heading thread.
5. Trim away batiste on one edge of entredeux.
6. Select Zig-zag stitch #8. Adjust width to 2.5 and length to 1.5.
7. Attach the gathered lace to this edge matching the quarter lines.
8. If the batiste on the remaining edge of the entredeux is not already 1/4", trim to 1/4".
9. Clip this fabric so that it will curve along the neck of the dress.
10. Place this strip to the neck edge of the dress with the back facings extended, right sides together.
11. Attach the entredeux/gathered lace strip to the neck of the dress with a straight stitch in the ditch. Adjust the length to 1.8.
12. Trim seam to 1/8".
13. Zig-zag over the seam allowance. Adjust the width to 3.0 and length to 1.0.
14. Using a tiny zig-zag, tack the seam allowance to the neckline (topstitch). Adjust the width to 1.0 and length to 1.0. This will keep the lace and entredeux standing up at the neck.

Back Button Closure

1. Fold to the wrong side 3/4" along the back selvage on each side. Press.
2. Fold another 3/4" again along each side of the Daygown. Press. This will create a back facing.
3. On right back mark a dot ?1/8" below the entredeux on neckline on center of facing.
4. Mark remaining 5 buttonholes by marking dots every 3".
5. Press the Buttonhole tab. Select Sensor BH #17. Adjust the width to 3.0 and length to 0.03. Be sure to pull down the Buttonhole Lever.
6. Start each buttonhole by lining up so the first stitch starts at each dot.
7. Carefully cut buttonholes open.
8. Mark button positions on left back through slit for top one and at 3" intervals down back.
9. Select Button Sewing stitch #28. Attach the Button Sewing Foot T.
10. Sew on the six buttons.

Hem Finish

1. Open out facings and press a scant 1/8" of bottom edge to wrong side.
2. Press under another 1/8" for hem.
3. Attach the Satin Stitch foot F.
4. Press the Satin Stitch tab. Select Decorative stitch #54. Adjust the width to 7.0 and length to 0.03. Turn the Pressure Dial to 3.
5. Line up the folded edge of the fabric on the arrow of the foot. The needle will swing to the right off the fabric to create a scallop. Be sure to practice on a fabric scrap.